A Summertime Sandwich

Some sandwiches qualify as a work of art. Layers of flavor and exciting texture blended with spicing magic become a composite. Memories of favorite foods harken to baby days and the joy of tasting something indescribably delicious. While there are many delights that come to mind, I often yearn for a Soft-shell Crab Sandwich. For those who have not enjoyed this American creation, it’s time for initiation.

My first bite of this delicious treat happened during a childhood visit to the charming Gulf Coast village of Carabelle in the Florida Panhandle. I knew I had tasted paradise.

Later, I’ve had the sandwich from Maryland on down the Atlantic Coast and throughout the South. There are, naturally, some variations, but the basics are pretty consistent: battered soft-shell crabs fried in oil, Tartar sauce, lettuce, tomato, Old Bay seasoning and toasted quality sandwich buns.

The Soft-shell Crab Sandwich is loaded with flavor.

Tommy Chason, a legendary criminal defense lawyer, was a native of Chattahoochee, Florida. Tommy observed that a soft-shell crab sandwich was even tastier when enjoyed in a seaside shack with “Honey Don’t,” the Carl Perkins Sun Records classic playing on the jukebox.

This delicacy works with a multitude of beverages: iced tea, lemonade, Coca-Cola, beer or, my favorite, chilled Pinot Gris, a delicious white wine from Oregon’s King Estate.

Seafood tastes even better near the water.

TOMMY’S CLASSIC SOFT-SHELL CRAB SANDWICH

Ingredients:

For the tartar sauce-

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 Tbs. minced red onion

1 Tbs. finely chopped dill pickle

1 Tbs. rinsed and finely chopped capers

1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

1-1/2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp. Tabasco sauce

For the crabs-

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup medium-grind yellow cornmeal

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 jumbo soft-shell crabs, cleaned 

2 Tbs. corn oil

1 Tbs. unsalted butter

To assemble

4 sliced white sandwich buns, toasted

4 slices of lettuce

4 to 8 slices vine-ripe tomato

Make the sauce

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, onion, pickle, capers, with spicy tartar sauce chives, Old Bay, lemon juice, and hot pepper sauce. Set aside.

Jukebox music adds to casual coastal dining.

Cook the crabs

In a wide, shallow bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Dredge the crabs to coat on both sides
Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat until hot. Add the butter to the skillet and swirl the pan to melt it. Add the crabs top side down and cook, shaking the pan once or twice, until crisp and browned, about 3 minutes. Flip the crabs and cook until crisp, about 3 minutes more. Transfer the crabs to a large paper-towel-lined plate.

Assemble the sandwiches

Spread the tartar sauce on the bun slices. Top half of the toast slices, sauce side up, with a piece of lettuce and 1 or 2 slices of tomato. Put one crab on each sandwich, top with the remaining toast, sauce side down, and enjoy.

Old school journalism describes the style and stories produced by Doc Lawrence. “In everything I do,” he says, “there is a beginning, middle and an end.” One of the top travel writers in the country, Doc is steeped in the heritage of the deep south. Traveling the back roads from Texas to Virginia and on down to Key West inspires stories about local food and wine preferences, community theater, folk art and music often leading to clues for a good story. Heroes include Faulkner, Hemingway, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, Ralph Ellison, Dorothy Parker and Willie Morris. An Atlanta native, Doc keeps a well-stocked wine cellar and bar and two outdoor grills. He enjoys entertaining and believes that the greatest challenge for a writer is to keep searching for a higher life. www.thegourmethighway.com | doclawrence@mindspring.com
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