It’s tomato season and that thought stimulates memories of baby days when I would ride my bike to then unpolluted nearby streams like Peachtree Creek, find a good place under the railroad trestle near Emory University, fish for bream, perch and occasional bass, rewarded with a lunch my mother packed which this time of year included my favorite, a tomato sandwich.
We never bought tomatoes from a store. My parents, children of the Great Depression, were from the rural South and gardening was second-nature to them. Tomatoes were plentiful and delicious.
There are things we have in common in my part of America. Food ranks in importance alongside the songs of Hank Williams, Ray Charles, Patsy Cline and Mahalia Jackson. Barbecue; Fried Chicken; Potato Salad; Fried Green Tomatoes; Peach Cobbler; Hush Puppies; Grits and Red-Eye Gravy. But, according to sages like Lewis Grizzard, Jerry Clower and Rick Bragg, the Tomato sandwich occupies an exalted place.
Making the proper tomato sandwich does involve some techniques. Almost without exception, good white bread is used. The tomatoes? From my garden. Or, hierloom Graingers from East Tennessee, but never ones from California or Mexico. Organically grown is preferrred.
Then, there’s mayonnaise. Brand loyalty is deep. My mother, one of the greatest cooks anywhere, used Blue Plate. Others believe in Hellmann’s or Duke’s. I use any of these plus some a little more obscure like ‘Bama.
One technique I’ve found helpful came from my grandmother. “Miss Stella,” as she was affectionally known, advised slicing the tomato to match the thickness of one slice of bread used in the sandwich. It balances out everything. I add a little Himalayan Pink Salt and fresh ground pepper.
Many add all sorts of extras: fried bacon, cheese, lettuce, basil, cilantro and some more exotic ingredients. I stick with the simple sandwich.
Geoff Burton’s Windy City Mayonnaise
The legendary Chicago bon vivant is not only an esteemed writer and highly respected movie critic but a fellow who knows good food. Here’s his mayonnaise:
1 large egg (room temp)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar (Hellmann’s used a red food dye and vinegar)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon Grey Poupon mustard
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup corn or canola oil
Use your Kitchenaide stand mixer with the whip [Much easier than by hand]
Add egg and whip for 20 seconds. Then add the mustard, vinegar, and salt. Mix for another 30 seconds. Scrape the bowl and make sure all is incorporated.
Now… slowly dribble the oil in tiny drops until about a quarter of the oil has been added and the emulsion forms. Afterward you can slowly pour in the rest of the oil using a thin steady stream (while still mixing!)
Voila! One cup of the best mayo ever!
Sir Verde’s Wine Suggestions: Tomatoes are quite acidic. Some wines work well for an afternoon lunch on the patio featuring your own tomato sandwich. Pour a chilled Sancerre from the Loire River Valley of France, a Soave Classico from Italy or a delightful Sparkling Rosé from Germany. Obviously, Sweet Iced Tea or fresh squeezed Lemonade would be well-received.
Bonne dégustation. Love One Another.
